Burberry February 2018 – Christopher Bailey’s last show

Burberry February 2018 – Christopher Bailey’s last show

Hey Guys!

Sorry for not posting on Friday but I was waiting for the LFW to start and especially for the Burberry show. Now before I start breaking down the show, I have to mention that Burberry has always been one of my favourite brands since I started to show interest in the fashion world and I also encourage you to watch the show cause I still don’t have pictures of it, so just click here.

Okay, first things first let us talk about the setting. The show was at a big warehouse and it was pretty dark. There were lights hanging from the ceiling and when the song Memories started playing, the lights began to move. I am pretty sure this was already a sign that the theme of the show will be about time, memories, and nostalgia. They managed to do this in a great way by playing with the lights and it created a sort of mystical vibe.

Then the models started walking around the runway and as I mentioned in my previous posts, Burberry is one of the brands that show its menswear and womenswear collections together. There was a lot going on but that is normal cause if you spend 17 years at a fashion house, there is a plenty of products to bring back especially if you are looking back at your work as a creative person. The collection was quite similar to the previous ones but there were “classic” products a bit reimagined like the iconic trench coat, the check print that got a very bad reputation because of the chavs, and I liked that there was a lot of colour going on.

Also, there was another important theme incorporated into this show and that is the LGBTQ flag. From bags, hats, scarves, and basically, most of the products featured the colours of the LGBTQ flag which I think was great and also it was a very personal reference to Bailey itself being an openly gay man. But before I move onto my final thoughts, I have to mention a couple of objections cause this is a place where we talk about the positive and negative as well.

I was missing the live performance. There were plenty of shows and especially with Burberry where live performance was a crucial and fun element. Even in their Regents street flagship store, they used to have concerts and they gave the opportunity to many British singers and bands to show their talents. The second issue is not just about Burberry, it is rather about the whole LFW. The representation of the body is still not ideal. We just have to look at NYFW and how democratic and inclusive it is becoming in terms of size and age, and I am still missing that here.

But I know these things will change soon. The show ended with Bailey walking out receiving a standing ovation and even though Don’t leave me this way was playing, it was a happy ending. Can’t wait to see what is next for Burberry and Christopher Bailey as well.

See you next week,

Abel.

 

Why I’m Not Talking About Haute Couture?

Why I’m Not Talking About Haute Couture?

Hey Everyone!

First of all, I know I said that I’m going to do two more posts about vocabulary but when I finished my research, I said – I don’t think this is needed.- Everyone knows what stilettoes and brogues are (hopefully). But one of my friends asked the question – Are you writing any posts on haute couture?- and my answer was no and here’s why.

Let me start off by telling you why I write about fashion shows. I write my reviews about the fashion shows because I feel confident and qualified enough to make opinions. I have been following ready to wear shows for about ten years, and when I got into uni, I also conducted a lot of research about the brands I am making those reactions about. With this in mind, I feel confident enough to make statements about the collections, but haute couture is a whole different story to me.

The first time I encountered this term was three years ago and when I heard it, I immediately hit the internet and to be honest, there was not much about it. Yes, there was all the information why haute couture is haute couture and the characteristics about it, but I don’t think three years is enough experience to make any conclusions about the collections and I want to be a 100% sure that when I post something here, it should represent how I truly think and feel about it. So yeah, that pretty much sums it up. However, I did ask some of my friends who do follow haute couture shows and their opinions were divergent.

They said that the previous haute couture shows were much better and this season the best show was Ralph and Russo and the most boring was Chanel. Their words, not mine. But I decided to dig a bit deeper into the history of haute couture so maybe you’ll see some of my thoughts on the upcoming seasons. Anyways, do you follow haute couture shows or you are more just a ready to wear person?

Hope all is good and see you next week,

Abel.

Fashion Vocabulary 101

Fashion Vocabulary 101

Hey Guys!

Today I have decided to write a post on some of the terms used in the fashion industry that may be confusing to someone who is not that involved on a day-to-day basis. The reason for this is because when I was looking up these terms years ago I couldn’t find a collective page and let us be honest, no one wants to open 10 pages when you just want to look up something. The original post got so long, so I decided to break it down to three. This is the first one and is all about “general” terms, then the upcoming ones will be about menswear and womenswear products.

Haute Couture

Haute Couture can be translated to high-fashion. This term usually indicates clothes that are made by hand from start to finish using very delicate materials. Back in the day, a lot of brands had haute couture collections, but today there are still some brands doing them like Dior and Chanel.

Prêt-à-porter

Pret-a-porter means ready to wear. These are the S/S or A/W collections we see on the runway usually 6 months in advance. Ready to wear products are still made out of quality materials but they are more accessible than haute couture because if one wants to have an haute couture dress, they would have to go to the atelier and take their measurements, so the product is made individually for the client. With ready to wear, you just have to go to a luxury retailer.

Resort/Cruise collection

This indicates the collections in-between the ready to wear ones. Originally it was for wealthy customers who went on holidays to countries where the weather was warm during winter.

Pre-fall

This term marks the garments that hit the stores when the summer heat is over but the autumn collections are still in the making.

Fast fashion

Fast fashion is a term used for retailers who make products that are cost-efficient but still responding to trends. This usually follows the idea that customers want high-quality products but with low prices. Most of the retailers will fall into this category like H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo.

High-street retailer

High-street means the same thing as fast fashion. Mainly it is used in the UK but I still wanted to mention it cause I am using this term a lot.

 

That is it for today. I hope you find this useful and see you next week,

 

Abel.

The Creative Director Cycle

The Creative Director Cycle

Hey Everyone!

How are you doing? A couple of days ago I was going to bed when I got a notification from Business of Fashion. “Kim Jones to leave Louis Vuitton” – said the headline. So I opened it and started reading. There was not much that time cause the article was still updating but there was one thought that caught my attention which said that he might be headed to Burberry. This got me thinking about the previous artistic/creative directors who have left established fashion houses for another one.

The question is why I started to think about this? Not long ago in the 90’s and 00’s, designers were appointed as artistic directors after they graduated from universities or designing lesser-known labels. The strategy was, especially if you look at LVMH, to give an own brand to the designer while he/she is the creative lead of a known brand. If you think about John Galliano or Gianfranco Ferre this applies perfectly. However, nowadays it seems like there is a massive chaos when it comes to appointing these creative professionals. When Maria Grazia Chiuri left Valentino to go and design for Dior, it caused a lot of confusion. Also the same applies to Raf Simons because he left Dior for Calvin Klein or Anthony Vaccarello departing from Versus Versace to be the lead at YSL.  Just writing this down looks funny.

So where the issue is that I don’t think consumers react the same way. Especially if you think about their age. We as the twenty-something-year-olds do not really care about who is the creative director just give us that new Gucci shirt or the new capsule collection from Balenciaga, but we don’t have to go far in terms of age to see a different reaction. My friends who are in their thirties and up always voice their opinions how they think the brand is not even important anymore. “We live in the era when the designer is more important than the brand. When I look at a dress, I can’t tell you anymore if it is by Dior or Valentino, but I can say that it was designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri.” – they say

I think it is good to bring new energies and new talent into a business when there is the need, but I have to be honest, the statements from the unsatisfied consumer do carry some truths as well because if you think about it, is there any similarity between Calvin Klein and Dior? I don’t think so, Calvin Klein is a US brand and the latter is French, so basically we are talking about two different fashion worlds, and when the debut collections hit the runway, we along with journalists and other media people are left with a new new collection and we immediately start to search for similarities between previous collections or cuts, styles that carry the heritage of the company trying to justify why he/she will be great for the brand and after we found those answers, we stick to them no matter what the other thinks.

Anyways, I am mostly satisfied with these collections but if this is an opinion voiced by a whole demographic of consumers and not just my friends, maybe it is the time that fashion houses try and figure out something that works for everyone. After all, you can sell more bags. What is your opinion about this? Do you even follow these happenings or this is too much of an insider topic?

See you soon,

Abel.