Why I’m Not Talking About Haute Couture?

Why I’m Not Talking About Haute Couture?

Hey Everyone!

First of all, I know I said that I’m going to do two more posts about vocabulary but when I finished my research, I said – I don’t think this is needed.- Everyone knows what stilettoes and brogues are (hopefully). But one of my friends asked the question – Are you writing any posts on haute couture?- and my answer was no and here’s why.

Let me start off by telling you why I write about fashion shows. I write my reviews about the fashion shows because I feel confident and qualified enough to make opinions. I have been following ready to wear shows for about ten years, and when I got into uni, I also conducted a lot of research about the brands I am making those reactions about. With this in mind, I feel confident enough to make statements about the collections, but haute couture is a whole different story to me.

The first time I encountered this term was three years ago and when I heard it, I immediately hit the internet and to be honest, there was not much about it. Yes, there was all the information why haute couture is haute couture and the characteristics about it, but I don’t think three years is enough experience to make any conclusions about the collections and I want to be a 100% sure that when I post something here, it should represent how I truly think and feel about it. So yeah, that pretty much sums it up. However, I did ask some of my friends who do follow haute couture shows and their opinions were divergent.

They said that the previous haute couture shows were much better and this season the best show was Ralph and Russo and the most boring was Chanel. Their words, not mine. But I decided to dig a bit deeper into the history of haute couture so maybe you’ll see some of my thoughts on the upcoming seasons. Anyways, do you follow haute couture shows or you are more just a ready to wear person?

Hope all is good and see you next week,

Abel.

Fashion Vocabulary 101

Fashion Vocabulary 101

Hey Guys!

Today I have decided to write a post on some of the terms used in the fashion industry that may be confusing to someone who is not that involved on a day-to-day basis. The reason for this is because when I was looking up these terms years ago I couldn’t find a collective page and let us be honest, no one wants to open 10 pages when you just want to look up something. The original post got so long, so I decided to break it down to three. This is the first one and is all about “general” terms, then the upcoming ones will be about menswear and womenswear products.

Haute Couture

Haute Couture can be translated to high-fashion. This term usually indicates clothes that are made by hand from start to finish using very delicate materials. Back in the day, a lot of brands had haute couture collections, but today there are still some brands doing them like Dior and Chanel.

Prêt-à-porter

Pret-a-porter means ready to wear. These are the S/S or A/W collections we see on the runway usually 6 months in advance. Ready to wear products are still made out of quality materials but they are more accessible than haute couture because if one wants to have an haute couture dress, they would have to go to the atelier and take their measurements, so the product is made individually for the client. With ready to wear, you just have to go to a luxury retailer.

Resort/Cruise collection

This indicates the collections in-between the ready to wear ones. Originally it was for wealthy customers who went on holidays to countries where the weather was warm during winter.

Pre-fall

This term marks the garments that hit the stores when the summer heat is over but the autumn collections are still in the making.

Fast fashion

Fast fashion is a term used for retailers who make products that are cost-efficient but still responding to trends. This usually follows the idea that customers want high-quality products but with low prices. Most of the retailers will fall into this category like H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo.

High-street retailer

High-street means the same thing as fast fashion. Mainly it is used in the UK but I still wanted to mention it cause I am using this term a lot.

 

That is it for today. I hope you find this useful and see you next week,

 

Abel.

The Creative Director Cycle

The Creative Director Cycle

Hey Everyone!

How are you doing? A couple of days ago I was going to bed when I got a notification from Business of Fashion. “Kim Jones to leave Louis Vuitton” – said the headline. So I opened it and started reading. There was not much that time cause the article was still updating but there was one thought that caught my attention which said that he might be headed to Burberry. This got me thinking about the previous artistic/creative directors who have left established fashion houses for another one.

The question is why I started to think about this? Not long ago in the 90’s and 00’s, designers were appointed as artistic directors after they graduated from universities or designing lesser-known labels. The strategy was, especially if you look at LVMH, to give an own brand to the designer while he/she is the creative lead of a known brand. If you think about John Galliano or Gianfranco Ferre this applies perfectly. However, nowadays it seems like there is a massive chaos when it comes to appointing these creative professionals. When Maria Grazia Chiuri left Valentino to go and design for Dior, it caused a lot of confusion. Also the same applies to Raf Simons because he left Dior for Calvin Klein or Anthony Vaccarello departing from Versus Versace to be the lead at YSL.  Just writing this down looks funny.

So where the issue is that I don’t think consumers react the same way. Especially if you think about their age. We as the twenty-something-year-olds do not really care about who is the creative director just give us that new Gucci shirt or the new capsule collection from Balenciaga, but we don’t have to go far in terms of age to see a different reaction. My friends who are in their thirties and up always voice their opinions how they think the brand is not even important anymore. “We live in the era when the designer is more important than the brand. When I look at a dress, I can’t tell you anymore if it is by Dior or Valentino, but I can say that it was designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri.” – they say

I think it is good to bring new energies and new talent into a business when there is the need, but I have to be honest, the statements from the unsatisfied consumer do carry some truths as well because if you think about it, is there any similarity between Calvin Klein and Dior? I don’t think so, Calvin Klein is a US brand and the latter is French, so basically we are talking about two different fashion worlds, and when the debut collections hit the runway, we along with journalists and other media people are left with a new new collection and we immediately start to search for similarities between previous collections or cuts, styles that carry the heritage of the company trying to justify why he/she will be great for the brand and after we found those answers, we stick to them no matter what the other thinks.

Anyways, I am mostly satisfied with these collections but if this is an opinion voiced by a whole demographic of consumers and not just my friends, maybe it is the time that fashion houses try and figure out something that works for everyone. After all, you can sell more bags. What is your opinion about this? Do you even follow these happenings or this is too much of an insider topic?

See you soon,

Abel.

London Fashion Week Mens – January

London Fashion Week Mens – January

Hello everyone!

How is your new year going? Mine is filled with being between four walls and studying day and night, but it is almost over. I gotta be honest with you, I completely forgot that LFWM was last weekend. It just totally slipped my mind but thankfully, some of my friends were actually working during the shows so I decided to check the designers.

When I first realised that it was the LFWM, I thought, who is going to showcase their design cause a lot of brands have decided to merge their menswear and womenswear shows into one so probably they will show all the collections during the fashion weeks. I probably was right, cause if I remember correctly, the previous LFWM schedule was a bit bigger. But there’s always something good and this gave me the opportunity to view some of the brands I do not know nor follow. So here’s my opinion about three A/W 18 collections.

Ben Sherman

Ben Sherman was originally a brand focusing on producing high-quality shirts and not long after he launched the brand, the shirt quickly became an icon at that time. This new collection is exactly telling what the modern consumer would wear. There is no need for extravagant designs. It is really tailored for the guy in his twenties or thirties who rejects the boring navy suit with the white shirt (so basically Londons uniform) and is not afraid to add a bit of hue into his wardrobe. I think the looks were really well put together. It is a very modern capsule collection. Click here if you want to see the whole collection.

Bobby Abley

I have never heard of Bobby Abley before, but I was very fortunate to find this brand. The whole collection is so funny and it is filled with humour. It is very colourful and of course, there are looney toons character products as well. I know, Moschino already had those once but still, it made me very joyful when I saw the pieces probably because it resonated with my inner child cause I loved looney toons. This collection compared to the Ben Sherman one is very much NOT a capsule collection however now that I think about it, it would be actually entertaining to watch men wear these as everyday clothes. Click here for the collection.

Oliver Spencer

I had Oliver Spencer on my watch in the past year though I still didn’t buy anything, but as we say, all is not lost that is delayed. I am already excited about the SS collection to hit the stores cause I remember I loved the previous one, and this collection is no different. Tailoring is the essence with an added modern style. Very elegant and a lot of hue colours as well. click here for the collection.

What is really interesting to me is that brown was still a prime colour in these collections and others like Chalayan had brown pieces too. Don’t get me wrong, I like the colour, but it was already a major trend colour in 2017 A/W and it feels a bit mundane to use it again. Anyways, still great collections.

See you soon,

Abel.

 

LV x Jeff Koons collaboration 2 plus I finally got the play CDG x Converse sneakers

LV x Jeff Koons collaboration 2 plus I finally got the play CDG x Converse sneakers

Hey everyone!

No recipe today. Sorry but the university assignments are taking all of my time and I have been mostly surviving on meal deals from Tesco and Waitrose. Maybe I should do a meal deal post.

It has been a while since I wrote about fashion. Mainly because this is my final year at the university and that’s a priority. Anyway, I finally managed to sit down a bit and read about our beloved fashion industry and the news were everywhere; The Masters 2 collaboration is coming. Wow, I have to be honest. I already shared my views on the first collection, but I got to admit, it must have performed well in terms of sales cause that’s why we are getting a second one. What is really interesting to me is that since I study fashion, the university is filled with people who have new merchandise even sometimes before the release date and they are pretty much early adaptors when it comes to trends. Just think about Yeezys or the Supreme x LV collection, or the new Jadior bag. You can pretty much see it anywhere when you enter one of the many campuses throughout London. But I haven’t seen anyone wearing the masters collection. I’m just merely interested. Probably Jeff Koons fans and older customers are actually the ones who buy the collection. We will definitely see how this collection is performing.

 

CDG 1

 

Another update regarding some shopping. Drum roll, please. I finally got the Play CDG x Converse sneakers. It has been months I was constantly checking the Dover Street Market website. When I was in Japan, I was asking everyone at DSM if they have these sneakers, but of course, my size was not in stock. But finally, it is back in stock and I just received an email from DSM that the polka dot one is back as well. If you want these sneakers, I suggest you buy them quickly because they are selling super fast. They are comfy, in my opinion, they look cool and they retail for £95.

That’s it for today guys.

See you soon,

Abel.

 

 

 

New Gear from Japan

New Gear from Japan

Hey everyone! How are you doing?

Sorry for the missed Mondays post but I was at Sziget festival and I actually tried to take pictures there, but they are way too blurry. Today I decided to show you guys the stuff that I got from Japan. It has been a while since I talked about fashion. Now, here I only show two out of the 4 pieces because I am planning an outfit with the rest. They’ll look better that way. But you can already see that the clothes I got are black. I know, where is the colour? I am all about colour and I try to not to wear black. I think people especially in the fashion industry, tend to wear black a lot more. I mean it always looks good, it makes you look thinner etc.

But the reason behind my shopping is that I was actually missing some basic stylish pieces. If you look at my wardrobe, you are going to see colours and patterns but besides black jeans and chinos, I don’t even have a black shirt. I just realised that.

 

Givenchy leather sneakers

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Leather sneakers have become an essential wardrobe piece throughout the years. All the brands from high street to luxury have them in their collections. Black or white it doesn’t really matter. They are stylish and very versatile. You can dress these down and up as well. I went for Givenchy because they do have many options in terms of sneakers. They do have these with a white sole too and if you choose white leather, you can play with the heel tab colours. I think the options were, blue, white and red.

 

Bottega Veneta leather bracelet

 

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I am not really a mens jewellery guy. Especially not silver and gold, but I always liked leather bracelets, so I finally decided to get one. And where to go for leather? Why not Bottega Veneta? They are still a luxury brand with their signature knotted leather accessories. Of course, this brand is also a pricey one.

If you don’t have the resources or you are just not willing to spend too much on leather jewellery, I would go with Fossil. A lot of my friends (guys and girls as well) do have leather accessories from Fossil, and it is a very good brand.

The other two products that you can actually see in the first picture are a Comme des Garcons bag and a kimono robe. These will be featured in my future outfit post probably next week.

Hope all is good and everyone is enjoying the week.

See you on Saturday,

The Fashion Eclectic.

Catching up with the SS18 menswear collections – Paris

Hey Guys! Hope everyone is doing well.

 

Today it is time for us to talk about the menswear collections in Paris. Let’s start.

Lanvin

Lanvin was all about layers and layers of clothes. There was a lot going on. The collection was very street-skate meets tailoring. One thing I loved was the jackets. I could just go to the store and buy all of them (probably never going to happen). What is very admirable is that Lucas Ossendrijver has been the creative director for the menswear collections for quite a while – I think about 10 years – but he is always bringing something new and fun.

The show is available here.

 

Yohji Yamamoto

Well, Yohji Yamamoto is one of my favourite designers, so this might be biased a bit, sorry. I loved this new collection. I think it was essentially contemporary him, but the dramatic women paintings were amazing.

The show is available here.

 

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton took us to the beach. That is what I concluded of the collection. Beach or even island life, floral print shirts and t-shirts, the small hat usually guys wear at the beach bar with sunglasses. Surfing and enjoying all the bits of life. I loved it.

The show is available here.

 

Alexander McQueen

Now I was thinking a lot about this collection. It was very anti-spring/summer collection actually. The collection had beautiful double breasted jackets, suits,  and leather jackets. So, this whole concept got me thinking a bit. Can we expect the S/S collections to be just linen shirts with shorts and espadrilles? Of course not, that would be simply stupid and we would just limit ourselves and the boundaries of art. After this chain of thoughts, I re-watched the show and it gave me a whole different perspective.

Click here for the show.

 

So the conclusion is, if you don’t like the show or don’t understand it, watch it again and again. Trust me you will get more and more out of it.

See you on Saturday,

The Fashion Eclectic.