The Creative Director Cycle

The Creative Director Cycle

Hey Everyone!

How are you doing? A couple of days ago I was going to bed when I got a notification from Business of Fashion. “Kim Jones to leave Louis Vuitton” – said the headline. So I opened it and started reading. There was not much that time cause the article was still updating but there was one thought that caught my attention which said that he might be headed to Burberry. This got me thinking about the previous artistic/creative directors who have left established fashion houses for another one.

The question is why I started to think about this? Not long ago in the 90’s and 00’s, designers were appointed as artistic directors after they graduated from universities or designing lesser-known labels. The strategy was, especially if you look at LVMH, to give an own brand to the designer while he/she is the creative lead of a known brand. If you think about John Galliano or Gianfranco Ferre this applies perfectly. However, nowadays it seems like there is a massive chaos when it comes to appointing these creative professionals. When Maria Grazia Chiuri left Valentino to go and design for Dior, it caused a lot of confusion. Also the same applies to Raf Simons because he left Dior for Calvin Klein or Anthony Vaccarello departing from Versus Versace to be the lead at YSL.  Just writing this down looks funny.

So where the issue is that I don’t think consumers react the same way. Especially if you think about their age. We as the twenty-something-year-olds do not really care about who is the creative director just give us that new Gucci shirt or the new capsule collection from Balenciaga, but we don’t have to go far in terms of age to see a different reaction. My friends who are in their thirties and up always voice their opinions how they think the brand is not even important anymore. “We live in the era when the designer is more important than the brand. When I look at a dress, I can’t tell you anymore if it is by Dior or Valentino, but I can say that it was designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri.” – they say

I think it is good to bring new energies and new talent into a business when there is the need, but I have to be honest, the statements from the unsatisfied consumer do carry some truths as well because if you think about it, is there any similarity between Calvin Klein and Dior? I don’t think so, Calvin Klein is a US brand and the latter is French, so basically we are talking about two different fashion worlds, and when the debut collections hit the runway, we along with journalists and other media people are left with a new new collection and we immediately start to search for similarities between previous collections or cuts, styles that carry the heritage of the company trying to justify why he/she will be great for the brand and after we found those answers, we stick to them no matter what the other thinks.

Anyways, I am mostly satisfied with these collections but if this is an opinion voiced by a whole demographic of consumers and not just my friends, maybe it is the time that fashion houses try and figure out something that works for everyone. After all, you can sell more bags. What is your opinion about this? Do you even follow these happenings or this is too much of an insider topic?

See you soon,

Abel.

Dealing with New Year’s resolutions

Dealing with New Year’s resolutions

Hey Guys and Happy New year!!!

Hope all of you had a wonderful holiday season with your loved ones. Today I am sharing with you my views on New Year’s resolutions. I think December is a very intense month. You have all the holidays happening and just when you can take a deep breath and relax, the New Year is just around the corner. So we start to reflect on everything we have done in the past year and we surely find something that we want to change in the upcoming year. This is also amplified probably by the people around you asking the question – “What is your resolution for the new year?”- it is like we are bound to have resolutions and we mostly do. Whatever that might be, let us be honest, you kickstart the year with motivation and you hit the gym, start something new, care more about your love life but after three months everything is gone because you don’t have the time or you just wanted faster results.

I think this problem is because of our mindset. I can’t even tell you how many resolutions I had and after a while, I was just like – I don’t care. But last year my resolution was different. I said – “I am not going to stress about my resolutions. I won’t put a time limit on my goals and I will not care about the pressure.” Then I have written down my goals and one of my main objectives was to lose weight. However, I did not hit the gym cause I get bored in minutes but I started to walk every day. As the time was passing, I just increased the distance I was walking and without even noticing it, I have lost a bunch of kilos in a year. And this happened while I was not stressing on this at all. So my advice for your resolutions is :

  • Do not stress about it
  • Do not put pressure on yourself
  • The beginning of the year is a good motivator but you have to remember that your resolutions are long-term plans
  • Enjoy yourself, it should not be painful and it should not feel as a burden
  • Starting a diary where you write every day can help to keep track of the progress

I wish that all of you start the new year with joy and happiness and good luck with your resolutions.

See you soon,

Abel.

Should you follow trends?

Should you follow trends?

Hey Guys!

How are you doing? A couple of weeks ago I was doing some shopping on ASOS. I mostly bought some basic navy and black sweaters and jeans but I also added a burgundy corduroy overshirt into my basket (I will link it below). I didn’t even think about it that much until I actually received my order. Corduroy, velour, and cable knit are on trend right now along with colours like burgundy, moss green, and camel and no matter which retailer you shop at, whether online or offline, you will find these types of fabrics and colours. But back to the story. I tried the overshirt and it was actually really nice but I couldn’t help myself because I realised that I used to hate corduroy. The last time I had something made out of that fabric was 15 years ago when my Mom got me a pair of trousers and I hated it. So I asked myself the question. – Do I like it because it is on trend?

Following this chain of thoughts, I just sat down and started to think about trends. Are we obliged to follow the trends of the seasons? I didn’t really get to a conclusion so I decided to wear the overshirt the next day. The next day when I was on my way to uni I saw about 10-13 men wearing similar burgundy jackets and overshirts and all of those pieces were corduroys. I actually felt a bit weird, to be honest. When I finally saw my friends, I received a lot of compliments that I looked good, the shirt is amazing and all that stuff. So yeah, I guess if we seek the approval of others, following the trends is a way of getting that but I was not seeking anyone’s approval. I am pretty confident about my style and what I put on each day even if someone doesn’t like it. I just simply don’t care. When I got home, I looked at the shirt and I was like, yeah, this actually looks good but you won’t see me walking on the streets wearing corduroy trousers.

You might be thinking, okay so what do I make out of this post? I think the answer is pretty clear. Ask yourself who are you dressing for. Are you dressing for yourself, your friends, or your partner? When you have the answer, you can make the decisions when you are shopping. Please note, there’s nothing wrong with following or not following the trends, I was just simply curious. If the trend matches your individual preferences, go for it and if not, you know what they say –c’est la vie. 

The below links are for some corduroy shirts that I think are good. I do own products from those brands, and I will always recommend items from brands that I know.

ASOS – 28£Screen Shot 2017-11-26 at 14.50.28

 

Mr.Porter (Folk) – 135£

Screen Shot 2017-11-26 at 14.54.50

 

Uniqlo – 24.90£

Screen Shot 2017-11-26 at 14.55.41

See you soon,

Abel.

 

Catching up with the SS18 menswear collections – Paris

Hey Guys! Hope everyone is doing well.

 

Today it is time for us to talk about the menswear collections in Paris. Let’s start.

Lanvin

Lanvin was all about layers and layers of clothes. There was a lot going on. The collection was very street-skate meets tailoring. One thing I loved was the jackets. I could just go to the store and buy all of them (probably never going to happen). What is very admirable is that Lucas Ossendrijver has been the creative director for the menswear collections for quite a while – I think about 10 years – but he is always bringing something new and fun.

The show is available here.

 

Yohji Yamamoto

Well, Yohji Yamamoto is one of my favourite designers, so this might be biased a bit, sorry. I loved this new collection. I think it was essentially contemporary him, but the dramatic women paintings were amazing.

The show is available here.

 

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton took us to the beach. That is what I concluded of the collection. Beach or even island life, floral print shirts and t-shirts, the small hat usually guys wear at the beach bar with sunglasses. Surfing and enjoying all the bits of life. I loved it.

The show is available here.

 

Alexander McQueen

Now I was thinking a lot about this collection. It was very anti-spring/summer collection actually. The collection had beautiful double breasted jackets, suits,  and leather jackets. So, this whole concept got me thinking a bit. Can we expect the S/S collections to be just linen shirts with shorts and espadrilles? Of course not, that would be simply stupid and we would just limit ourselves and the boundaries of art. After this chain of thoughts, I re-watched the show and it gave me a whole different perspective.

Click here for the show.

 

So the conclusion is, if you don’t like the show or don’t understand it, watch it again and again. Trust me you will get more and more out of it.

See you on Saturday,

The Fashion Eclectic.

 

 

 

Catching up with the SS18 menswear collections – Milan

Hey Guys! How are you doing?

Finally, I’m back on track with the posts and I will do my best to schedule them ahead to avoid another missed post. (You remember last week, right?)

Today it is all about the menswear collections at the Milan fashion week. Let’s starts.

PRADA

I have mixed emotions about Prada. First of all the setting was very interesting. It felt like being in a comic book. I love the fact that even the ground was a part of it as well. In terms of clothes, there are pieces that I love and there are pieces which I hate. I think the printed shirts are super fun with the comic prints as well and the knee high socks. But then there’s the other part of the collection. Jumpsuits, why? I don’t really want to expand on this because this will turn into an essay and we don’t want that. Let’s just say that I think male jumpsuits can only be worn by a certain amount of guys who have the body to pull that off.

click here for the show.

 

Versace

Versace had such a nice young cool energy. The show was at the Versace palace in Milan and it was essential Versace. I love the fact that pink is still rocking as one of the colour trends, and this means it will stick around for a while. The printed T-shirts that are coming back with the brand name on them look so fun. Also, the colour palette of the collection is great with the soft pastel colours but then you can find bright reds as well. It really feels like the “energy of today”.

click here for the show.

 

Salvatore Ferragamo

Pastels and neutrals, summer colours. The collection was okay. One thing I liked particularly is the huge variety of wide-cut shorts.

click here for the show.

 

Marni

The title that I would give for this collection is order in the chaos. There was a lot of things going on. Different cuts, patterns, shapes, and colours. It is like each look was super individual but when put next to each other, it still felt right. Great job and congratulations to Francesco Risso – this was his second show as the new creative director for Marni.

click here for the show.

 

There you go guys. Any thoughts on the Milan collections?

See you on Wednesday,

The Fashion Eclectic.

Balenciaga at the V&A

Balenciaga at the V&A

Hey guys! Happy Monday!

 

Sorry for the late post but everything is crazy right now. I have a couple of days left in London before I leave, so I have a lot of stuff to do. Anyways, today is another exhibition recommendation. I love going to exhibitions, and now I am sending you to see Balenciaga at the V&A.

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balenciaga 3

The exhibition follows the life and work of Cristóbal Balenciaga, the founder of the well known brand. Everything is explained in detail, how the designs were created, how the attention to detail was essential, and you can find some iconic pieces with the revolutionary silhouettes and shapes.

 

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balenciaga 5

What I really liked is that there was a whole section on how different cultures inspired his designs, and you can definitely see that when you are looking at the clothes. The exhibition itself s not that big, you only need an hour but it is worth the price.

 

balenciaga 6

If you love fashion, you should really go and check it out. I only share just a few of the pictures I have taken.

See you on Wednesday,

The Fashion Eclectic.

London Fashion Week Mens

Hey guys! How are you doing?

Today we are talking about the London Fashion Week Mens that happened recently. First of all, where was my invitation? Just kidding. To be serious, I am very glad that LFWM is growing year to year. This was the events 5th anniversary and finally, they started calling it LFWM. Before it was London Collections or something like that. Now a lot of designers showcased their collections but I’m only covering Oliver Spencer, Vivienne Westwood, and Kent and Curwen. If you want to see more, go and check out the LFWM website.

 

Oliver Spencer

Now I am not a big fan of suiting I have to be honest, but this collection was so enjoyable. Oliver Spencer is known to have classic pieces that will always be relevant and this show was no different. Blazers, tailored shorts, stripes, and checks, YES! The best pieces are the peachy trousers and jacket. Check out the collection here.

 

Vivienne Westwood

After her return to showcase in London, the queen of punk is killing it to me every season. In terms of colour, a lot of whites and blues, which is ok since this was the SS18 collection. The setting, a playground, the music, two guys playing the piano and the guitar. The clothes were essential Vivienne with a message -Buy less, choose well, make it last. She is an important pioneer of sustainability and environmental issues and always makes a statement with her shows. Great work! – watch the show here

 

Kent & Curwen

I think Kent & Curwen is getting better and better every year since David Beckham joined as a creative lead in 2015. Also, recent news say that a new flagship will open at Covent Garden this fall. This brand is a brand that has strong British Heritage, classic styling, and a great quality, but let’s talk about the show. The English rose had appeared on several pieces, I assume to highlight the brand’s roots and heritage. The collection overall was fun and I think the designs were aimed at the younger customer base as well. My favourite pieces are the sweater with the stripes, and the red jacket with the English rose. Check out the collection here.

 

That’s it for today. What do you think about the collections?

Have a lovely weekend and see you on Monday,

The Fashion Eclectic.