Fashion Vocabulary 101

Fashion Vocabulary 101

Hey Guys!

Today I have decided to write a post on some of the terms used in the fashion industry that may be confusing to someone who is not that involved on a day-to-day basis. The reason for this is because when I was looking up these terms years ago I couldn’t find a collective page and let us be honest, no one wants to open 10 pages when you just want to look up something. The original post got so long, so I decided to break it down to three. This is the first one and is all about “general” terms, then the upcoming ones will be about menswear and womenswear products.

Haute Couture

Haute Couture can be translated to high-fashion. This term usually indicates clothes that are made by hand from start to finish using very delicate materials. Back in the day, a lot of brands had haute couture collections, but today there are still some brands doing them like Dior and Chanel.

Prêt-à-porter

Pret-a-porter means ready to wear. These are the S/S or A/W collections we see on the runway usually 6 months in advance. Ready to wear products are still made out of quality materials but they are more accessible than haute couture because if one wants to have an haute couture dress, they would have to go to the atelier and take their measurements, so the product is made individually for the client. With ready to wear, you just have to go to a luxury retailer.

Resort/Cruise collection

This indicates the collections in-between the ready to wear ones. Originally it was for wealthy customers who went on holidays to countries where the weather was warm during winter.

Pre-fall

This term marks the garments that hit the stores when the summer heat is over but the autumn collections are still in the making.

Fast fashion

Fast fashion is a term used for retailers who make products that are cost-efficient but still responding to trends. This usually follows the idea that customers want high-quality products but with low prices. Most of the retailers will fall into this category like H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo.

High-street retailer

High-street means the same thing as fast fashion. Mainly it is used in the UK but I still wanted to mention it cause I am using this term a lot.

 

That is it for today. I hope you find this useful and see you next week,

 

Abel.

The Creative Director Cycle

The Creative Director Cycle

Hey Everyone!

How are you doing? A couple of days ago I was going to bed when I got a notification from Business of Fashion. “Kim Jones to leave Louis Vuitton” – said the headline. So I opened it and started reading. There was not much that time cause the article was still updating but there was one thought that caught my attention which said that he might be headed to Burberry. This got me thinking about the previous artistic/creative directors who have left established fashion houses for another one.

The question is why I started to think about this? Not long ago in the 90’s and 00’s, designers were appointed as artistic directors after they graduated from universities or designing lesser-known labels. The strategy was, especially if you look at LVMH, to give an own brand to the designer while he/she is the creative lead of a known brand. If you think about John Galliano or Gianfranco Ferre this applies perfectly. However, nowadays it seems like there is a massive chaos when it comes to appointing these creative professionals. When Maria Grazia Chiuri left Valentino to go and design for Dior, it caused a lot of confusion. Also the same applies to Raf Simons because he left Dior for Calvin Klein or Anthony Vaccarello departing from Versus Versace to be the lead at YSL.  Just writing this down looks funny.

So where the issue is that I don’t think consumers react the same way. Especially if you think about their age. We as the twenty-something-year-olds do not really care about who is the creative director just give us that new Gucci shirt or the new capsule collection from Balenciaga, but we don’t have to go far in terms of age to see a different reaction. My friends who are in their thirties and up always voice their opinions how they think the brand is not even important anymore. “We live in the era when the designer is more important than the brand. When I look at a dress, I can’t tell you anymore if it is by Dior or Valentino, but I can say that it was designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri.” – they say

I think it is good to bring new energies and new talent into a business when there is the need, but I have to be honest, the statements from the unsatisfied consumer do carry some truths as well because if you think about it, is there any similarity between Calvin Klein and Dior? I don’t think so, Calvin Klein is a US brand and the latter is French, so basically we are talking about two different fashion worlds, and when the debut collections hit the runway, we along with journalists and other media people are left with a new new collection and we immediately start to search for similarities between previous collections or cuts, styles that carry the heritage of the company trying to justify why he/she will be great for the brand and after we found those answers, we stick to them no matter what the other thinks.

Anyways, I am mostly satisfied with these collections but if this is an opinion voiced by a whole demographic of consumers and not just my friends, maybe it is the time that fashion houses try and figure out something that works for everyone. After all, you can sell more bags. What is your opinion about this? Do you even follow these happenings or this is too much of an insider topic?

See you soon,

Abel.

London Fashion Week Mens – January

London Fashion Week Mens – January

Hello everyone!

How is your new year going? Mine is filled with being between four walls and studying day and night, but it is almost over. I gotta be honest with you, I completely forgot that LFWM was last weekend. It just totally slipped my mind but thankfully, some of my friends were actually working during the shows so I decided to check the designers.

When I first realised that it was the LFWM, I thought, who is going to showcase their design cause a lot of brands have decided to merge their menswear and womenswear shows into one so probably they will show all the collections during the fashion weeks. I probably was right, cause if I remember correctly, the previous LFWM schedule was a bit bigger. But there’s always something good and this gave me the opportunity to view some of the brands I do not know nor follow. So here’s my opinion about three A/W 18 collections.

Ben Sherman

Ben Sherman was originally a brand focusing on producing high-quality shirts and not long after he launched the brand, the shirt quickly became an icon at that time. This new collection is exactly telling what the modern consumer would wear. There is no need for extravagant designs. It is really tailored for the guy in his twenties or thirties who rejects the boring navy suit with the white shirt (so basically Londons uniform) and is not afraid to add a bit of hue into his wardrobe. I think the looks were really well put together. It is a very modern capsule collection. Click here if you want to see the whole collection.

Bobby Abley

I have never heard of Bobby Abley before, but I was very fortunate to find this brand. The whole collection is so funny and it is filled with humour. It is very colourful and of course, there are looney toons character products as well. I know, Moschino already had those once but still, it made me very joyful when I saw the pieces probably because it resonated with my inner child cause I loved looney toons. This collection compared to the Ben Sherman one is very much NOT a capsule collection however now that I think about it, it would be actually entertaining to watch men wear these as everyday clothes. Click here for the collection.

Oliver Spencer

I had Oliver Spencer on my watch in the past year though I still didn’t buy anything, but as we say, all is not lost that is delayed. I am already excited about the SS collection to hit the stores cause I remember I loved the previous one, and this collection is no different. Tailoring is the essence with an added modern style. Very elegant and a lot of hue colours as well. click here for the collection.

What is really interesting to me is that brown was still a prime colour in these collections and others like Chalayan had brown pieces too. Don’t get me wrong, I like the colour, but it was already a major trend colour in 2017 A/W and it feels a bit mundane to use it again. Anyways, still great collections.

See you soon,

Abel.

 

Dealing with New Year’s resolutions

Dealing with New Year’s resolutions

Hey Guys and Happy New year!!!

Hope all of you had a wonderful holiday season with your loved ones. Today I am sharing with you my views on New Year’s resolutions. I think December is a very intense month. You have all the holidays happening and just when you can take a deep breath and relax, the New Year is just around the corner. So we start to reflect on everything we have done in the past year and we surely find something that we want to change in the upcoming year. This is also amplified probably by the people around you asking the question – “What is your resolution for the new year?”- it is like we are bound to have resolutions and we mostly do. Whatever that might be, let us be honest, you kickstart the year with motivation and you hit the gym, start something new, care more about your love life but after three months everything is gone because you don’t have the time or you just wanted faster results.

I think this problem is because of our mindset. I can’t even tell you how many resolutions I had and after a while, I was just like – I don’t care. But last year my resolution was different. I said – “I am not going to stress about my resolutions. I won’t put a time limit on my goals and I will not care about the pressure.” Then I have written down my goals and one of my main objectives was to lose weight. However, I did not hit the gym cause I get bored in minutes but I started to walk every day. As the time was passing, I just increased the distance I was walking and without even noticing it, I have lost a bunch of kilos in a year. And this happened while I was not stressing on this at all. So my advice for your resolutions is :

  • Do not stress about it
  • Do not put pressure on yourself
  • The beginning of the year is a good motivator but you have to remember that your resolutions are long-term plans
  • Enjoy yourself, it should not be painful and it should not feel as a burden
  • Starting a diary where you write every day can help to keep track of the progress

I wish that all of you start the new year with joy and happiness and good luck with your resolutions.

See you soon,

Abel.